Game storage frequently asked questions

No. Every piece is designed to print without supports.

Choose your printer in the designer, including Bambu Lab, Prusa and Creality models, or enter a custom build volume. Check that every part fits before downloading.

Choose 3MF for Bambu Studio, or STL for another slicer.

Design and preview for free. A free account lets you save two designs and download three files a week, with up to two stacked units or a vertical stand of any size. Plywood panels and larger stacks need a paid plan.

Pro, Lifetime and the 14-day project pass include a commercial licence for files you generate. Free and Starter are for personal use.

Yes. Choose your format and how many games to store. Check your games’ measurements before printing, because some preset sizes are unverified.

No. Everything is 3D printed. Plywood is an optional panel set into the front from behind and an optional stiffening panel in the side walls.

Splitting a part and gluing it back together weakens it and shows seams. Instead the tool checks that each part fits your printer in X, Y and Z, and tells you how many slots or rows your bed allows. The frame prints standing on its back, so its depth has to fit your printer's height; the default design needs a 256 mm build height.

Like the reference trays you sent: a thin 0.8 mm floor with long cut-outs, ribs between the cartridges that dip in the middle so you can get a finger under them, solid end bars, a low wall on the left with corner posts, and a tall wall on the right. Cartridges stand side by side in a row, and two rows fit one behind the other. You can turn the whole tray 90 degrees in the Size step: the cartridges then stand across the drawer and the drawer comes out of the end of the tray.

The front end of the tray (the bar, the left post and the tall wall) fits into a socket in the back of the front panel. Countersunk M2 screws go through the end bar from inside the tray into pilot holes in the front. Prefer glue? Switch the front fixing to Glue in the Tray tab.

Your reference front is a thin face with a recessed back, which uses a fraction of the plastic of a solid block. The tool does the same, prints it face down so the hollow faces up, and keeps every slope at 45 degrees or less so nothing needs support. Patterns, labels and handles are all cut into the face, because anything standing proud of a face-down print would have to be printed in mid-air.

The tray rests on the floor of the frame. Two thin blades on that floor run in two of the tray's floor cut-outs, which guide it straight and stop it when the end of the cut-out reaches the blade. There is no hole in any wall. Lift the tray about 1.5 mm and it slides free of the blades, so you can take it out. That is for the lengthwise layout. With the cartridges turned 90 degrees (the default) the tray slides between the plain frame walls, and a square-edged stop nub at the front edge of each wall catches the tall curved posts at the back of the tray. The drawer stops when every cartridge except the last one in each row is out in front of the frame, so you can pick them out (you can change that). To take a tray out, empty it, lift it about 27 mm over the nubs and slide it free.

Yes. Choose the screw-on handle pull and set the screw hole size and spacing (M4 at 64 mm is the default). Each hole gets a hex nut pocket in the back, inside a pillar of plastic in the hollow. Or choose a scoop, a slot or a finger groove that is cut into the front.

Walls of at least two extrusion lines, floors of at least four layers, whole-layer thicknesses, bed size in X, Y and Z, thin tall ribs, thin webs between floor cut-outs, overhangs and bridges measured on the real print-ready geometry, clearance on moving parts, and plywood pocket sizes. Anything that would not print blocks the export.

It is a planning figure, not slicer output: it uses the real volume and surface area of every part, with your wall loops and infill, and your own price and print-speed settings. Compare it with your slicer before you buy filament. Edit the prices and speeds under the fine settings in the Print step.

Yes. In the drawer builder, pick a drawer in the strip (or click it in the 3D view) and every tab (style, shape, surface, pull, label, plywood design) changes that drawer only; a dot marks what differs from the others. Each different front is its own printed part, named for the drawers it belongs to. Different fronts need a Starter plan to download; the preview is free.

Yes: pick a preset for N64, NES, Famicom, SNES, Game Boy, GBA, DS, Switch or Genesis cartridges, or for Xbox, Xbox 360, Xbox One, PlayStation 1 to 5, GameCube, Wii, Wii U, Switch, DS and PSP game cases. Some sizes are unverified, so measure yours. Picking a big case cuts the rows and slots down to what your printer can hold.

A copy of the upright rack you sent, which was drawn for Xbox cases: a bottom cap with two feet, a left and a right side panel and a top cap, joined with T-shaped tongues and slots. The games lie flat on the fins and slide in from the front. Pick another game and the same design is resized for it: slot width, width between the walls and depth follow the game, everything else stays. Its feet can reach forward in five designs (curved like the body, swoop, sloped, runner or your original feet), as far as the games stick out by default on a shallow rack like the N64 one, or as far as you like. The slot number you set is the number of games it holds, and a stand taller than your printer bed gets its side panels in parts that slot together, and caps wider than your bed come in parts that join the same way. Every piece prints lying on its back with no supports, and keyholes in the back let you hang it on a wall.

It goes in from the back. The face of the front has a window with a 1.5 mm border, and behind it a pocket a hair larger than the panel, so you push the panel in from the hollow back until it sits against the border: a tight press fit. Printed face down, the window only widens into the pocket, so it needs no supports. To change it, take the front off and push the panel out from the face.

Pro accounts can upload an SVG. Paths, shapes and lines are read; text and images are not, so convert text to outlines first. Filled shapes are raster-engraved and outlines are engraved as lines.

Not unless you save it to an account. The designer runs in your browser, saved designs stay in this browser until you save them to your account, and the link contains the settings. See the privacy policy.

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